....the Perfect Wave?? Perfect form, lines racing left and right as far down the shore as you can see, not one close out, a light offshore wind, absolute glass! Perfection???
Virginia Beach, VA. I've heard it's mostly a crumbly, dumpy beach break (a lot like FL!), so I'm not expecting much. I haven't surfed for weeks since moving to D.C. and I'm just jonesing to paddle into something. Who knows, maybe I'll get lucky!
That thing was definitely from the 80s, who knows, maybe even the 70s. About a 5'10", fat little Al Merrick that was completely yellowed and delaminated. ...but to me, the most beautiful thing I'd ever seen! Dad pushed me into waves until I got the hang of it. I remember our first day out, I was finally standing up and a girl in a black bikini that had to have been at least a couple years older than me told me, "good job, that's awesome!" after a wave. Pappa bear never let me hear the end of that one, I was blushing for the rest of the day!
Fast forward to about 5th grade, I got home from school one day and called the surf report (ya, you little punks, back in my day, we had to call the Aqua East or Sunrise Surf Hotline to hear the surf report!). There was a hurricane off the coast, and Gnarly Charlie said the waves were 9-12 feet!!! I'd never heard of anything that big at Jax Beach, and for some reason that I will never understand I was able to get my dad to drive me out there. But, he wouldn't let me paddle into that on my own, so having never really surfed before, he paddled out into double-overhead waves with me to make sure I didn't drown or something. Looking back, 1: I was a stupid kid. 2: What a Dad. Waves that big are terrifying, I can't imagine charging that kind of surf for the first time to protect a stupid kid.
Thanks Dad : )
William Pearce, M.D.